I have lived in Omaha for half a century. And as it turns out, this city and I have a lot in common. Both of us have grown up…and, um…out, in the past 50 years. And just as you probably would not recognize me from my childhood photos, much has changed with the city’s culinary scene in those many years.
Some of my fondest childhood memories involve - those who know me won’t be shocked - eating! We were regulars at King’s Food Host on 72nd and Cass (home of the cheese and tuna Frenchees), and the old, old Mr. C’s, when it was more drive-in than maze of holiday glitter. Henry’s sold hamburgers for 19 cents, and then there was that upstart…the place with those golden arches out on Dodge, that had those great French fries. We would order take out (no such thing as a drive-thru lane back then) and I would sit in the back of the car, holding the bag of food, and sneaking fries along the way. When Mom was in a good mood she would get us kids one extra sack of fries “for the trip home”.
When pressed to list my favorite Omaha restaurant experiences, my mind still drifts back to the fried chicken at Dixie Kitchen, Rose Lodge and Cliff’s.
Tiner’s Drive-In was also a favorite, near 44th and Dodge, as was Cliff’s Fried Chicken off 114th and Dodge….waaay out in the country in those days. We also spent our share of time at Sortino’s Pizza and Jack Holmes’ Ground Cow on Pacific. We always ordered out, and I can STILL taste that unique charred flavor of the burgers, fries and even in the apple pie. I loved their food, even though every time I ate there I soon got a terrible upset stomach. But silly kid that I was, I kept begging to go back.
When pressed to list my favorite Omaha restaurant experiences, my mind still drifts back to the fried chicken at Dixie Kitchen, Rose Lodge and Cliff’s."
The only “nice” restaurant my parents would dare to actually take me and my kid brother and sister to was Italian Gardens in Little Italy. We felt like family there, and were on a first name basis with the owner Louise Salerno and her daughter Sara, who ran the place. To this day my favorite cuisine is Italian, and I have the Salerno’s to thank for that. I couldn’t get enough of the toasted ravioli, spaghetti and meatballs and other Sicilian favorites that came from the Salerno’s kitchen. The place was tiny (the building later housed Café de Paris), but on a couple of occasions when our extended family came to town they would close the restaurant to the public and it became all ours. Once, when my mom had surgery and was off her feet for a week, word somehow got out to the Salerno ladies, and one evening a car pulled up to our house, and several large trays of salad, spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and yes, toasted raviolis were delivered to our front door…gratis. Now that’s Amore.
All of these memories, and a whole lot more, came floating back to me recently when I was shown a copy of a 1974 Omaha restaurant guide that turned up at an area garage sale - “Peter Citron’s Insider’s Guide to Omaha Restaurants.” I instantly remembered the guide from my high school days. It was a hot seller, the only one of its kind in town.
Peter Citron was, for quite a number of years, a restaurant/entertainment columnist for the Omaha World-Herald newspaper, and later he reported on food and entertainment for Channel 6 TV. New York City born, Peter hit River City with a lot of high falutin’ ideas about food. It later came out that Peter had a dark personal side, which culminated in a prison sentence, but even that scar to his reputation would not change the fact that he unquestionably, and almost single handedly, helped kick-start Omaha’s bucolic restaurant industry in the 1970s and 80s, and set it on the course to what it is today. One quick read of his 1974 restaurant guide drove that point home.
Citron’s guide profiled almost 100 restaurants. Guess how many remain open today? 20. And that includes write ups of Denny’s, IHOP and Village Inn. Fully 80% of the “top” spots for dining in 1974 are consigned to history today. They include fixtures on the Omaha restaurant scene such as four separate restaurants owned by the Caniglia family, the Bellevue Queen, Coco’s, Dixie Kitchen, Ross’, The Hilltop House, Sparetime, Trentino’s, Marchio’s, Kenny’s, Nasr’s, the Ranch Bowl, and Rose’ Lodge, to name but a few.
We have come a long way in that area in 34 years, although still not far enough for some of us."
What struck me most in going through the listings was that there was so little variety back in the 1970s. Nearly 60% of the restaurants listed featured multiple steak items on their menus - even the four or five oriental restaurants listed all had steaks on their menus. I also noted only four Mexican/Latin restaurants in the entire booklet. That compares with upwards of 50 around town today. One unfortunate place listed was called “Sambo’s.” Need I say more about how times have changed? Also, mention was repeatedly made of the fact that many menu items were delivered to the restaurants frozen, not made on premises. That would get you thrown into culinary jail today.
You will be interested to note that Omaha’s reputation of not being a great BBQ restaurant town has long roots. Not a single barbecue restaurant made the guide. Not a one! We have come a long way in that area in 34 years, although still not far enough for some of us.
With prosperity and military service, many Omahans are well traveled, and we demand so much more of a dining experience than did our parents or grandparents. While we might seek out places on a cold winter’s night that offer the “comfort food” of our youth, that was about all you could find in Omaha 30 or 40 years ago. That and a smattering of French and other high end European dining options. There was no sushi or sashimi. No tapas or paella. No calamari. No fajitas! No wine bars. No brew pubs. No Indian, Cuban, Belgian or Thai. No gourmet pizzas. No vegetarian. No fresh seafood (excluding carp). No casino restaurants, either - of course their were no casinos also.
While we might seek out places on a cold winter’s night that offer the “comfort food” of our youth, that was about all you could find in Omaha 30 or 40 years ago."
Omaha today boasts one of the Midwest’s largest culinary institutes, at Metropolitan Community College. The institute recently broke ground on a new $16 million expansion, which will help raise it’s stature to a level of national importance. None of this existed 30 or 40 years ago.
Yes, so much has changed; but when pressed to list my favorite Omaha restaurant experiences, my mind still drifts back to the fried chicken at Dixie Kitchen, Rose Lodge and Cliff’s. And of the view from the Top of the World, and hamburgers at Henry’s. Of the tiny Italian gem that was Leonarda’s on Leavenworth. And yes, even of the heartburn generated by a steakburger and baked beans at the Ground Cow. But mostly, of mother and daughter Salerno, lovingly making magic in the form of homemade meatballs dancing in a slightly bitter tomato sauce, fresh lasagna and platters of toasted ravioli. Ladies, you may be gone, but you left an indelible place in my heart.
Bill is better known to many in Omaha BBQ circles as “BBQ Bill.” For the past 15 years he has been a member of the Greater Omaha Barbecue Society (GOBS), including serving a recent stint as president. BBQ has been one of Bill’s food passions since his college days in the 1980s. As a certified BBQ Judge under rules of the Kansas City BBQ Society, Bill has judged sanctioned barbecue contests in 5 states.
30 Comments
You left out The Steam Shed, truly one on Omaha's more unique restaurants of the time, as well as the Gas Lamp and a number of other notables. I bet you have lots of memories of those you could share with the readers.
Yes, my friend, I did forget about the Steam Shed, out in Irvington. Site of one of my prom dinners. The place didn't seem to stay around very long. But then, neither did my prom date.
I was only at the Gas Lamp once. It burned down under mysterious circumstances as I recall.
I also remember how Ross' restaurant used to corral the Aksarben Grand Champion Steer out in front of the restaurant, under the huge Ross' sign with the protruding illuminated cow, as a lure to customers. But you never know what sort of folk such a spectacle would attract, as I seem to recall hearing how one year "someone" shot the defenseless cow. At least it was well insured....
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Bill MacKenzie
I read in one of your previous articles that your favorite Italian restaurant in the area was always Valentino's, but you don't mention it here, and that you thought the tables at the old Mr. C's likely were wired for sound. You also mentioned that Mt Fuji Inn was not to be missed for its fabulous Mai Tais, and that Omaha would never have a restaurant that could hold a candle to Chicago's Berghoff Cafe. How about commenting??
Back in the 1970s high school buds and I used to drive down to Lincoln for Valentino's pizza, off of 70th and "A" Streets. We didn't have any Valentino's in Omaha back then, and the drive just made us all the hungrier. I really loved that pizza. When they first opened in Omaha I thought I had died and gone to heaven. We frequented their restaurants here quite a bit for a while, but it just wasn't the same, as our previous inability to easily access Val's was part of the lure of the place, as much as was their unique soft crust pizza. I used to love their baked grinder sandwiches, which they dropped from their menu a long time ago. But my family still does Val's on Christmas Eve, and it is one of our new holiday traditions.
Mr. C's was in a class all by itself. I recall waiting in their small waiting room for a table for over 2 hours back in the late 70s and early 80s. The food was wholesome and filling, and tasted good. That's about where it ended. The Christmas light thing got old with me, and I think with a lot of other diners as the years passed. The restaurant became like the Queen Mary when people were turning to more intimate dining options. It was too big to adjust to changing tastes, and the fact that Omahans had discovered true Italian food at places like Pasta Amore, Lo Sole Mio and LaStrada. It was fun while it lasted. I think the location on the North Side of town became a major hindrance over time, for a variety of reasons.
Mt. Fuji was never one of my favorite places to eat. But when I was still in college it certainly was a place to drink. The Mai Tai drinks went down very smoothly, one after the other, as patrons sat in the large swivel chairs and got sloshed. When it got time to leave and ascend the stairs from the basement lounge to the outside that stairway might has well have been Mt. Fuji. Many customers could not negotiate the way out after imbibing. Many that did never made it home without a thrilling ride. I guess this is true of a lot of bars that attract the newly "of age."
The Berghoff in downtown Chicago, now sadly closed, was a great old style restaurant. The closest thing left in Omaha is the Bohemian Cafe. Great beer both places, and "hockey puck" heavy food. Once a year is about all I can stomach of heavy food like that. Winter is a perfect time to eat heavy, so maybe I will be returning to 13th St. and the Bohemian Cafe soon. "Dumplings and Kraut today....at the Bohemian Cafe. Laughter is sparkling. Plenty of parking. See you at lunch, O-K!" was the radio jingle. Obviously some things you never forget.
- Bill MacKenzie
What are your thoughts on some of the "classic" Omaha restaurants like Gorat's, Marchio's, Piccolo Pete's and Cascio's? I'd love to hear.
Don't you think that Big Fred's has the best pizza in Omaha? S Kotlarz, Omaha
I guess I am the Omnivore Oracle of Omaha. LOL. Unlike Omaha's "other" oracle, I personally have no affinity for Gorats. While they pour a good drink, I feel the menu is about 40 years out of date (although the prices aren't). The atmosphere is tired, starting out with the tattered astroturf on the front steps (at leasst as of last year). I would put Cascios firmly in this same class.
Marchio's was more to my liking, alas it is relegated to history. And I swore many years ago I would never go back to Piccolo Petes after a disgusting dinner I and a number of friends had. That was perhaps 30 years ago and I have kept to my promise. There is no need to elaborate, other than to say I doubt anyone who had dined with us that night would find a reason to return under the same management/ownership. If I want cheap prices, no service and "take it or leave it" food parings I will eat at the Open Door Mission.
My favorite pizza places are LaCasa, Zio's, and Giovanna Santini's in Bellevue's Twin Creek district. Actually Big Fred's is pretty good, although tends to be greasy, and they have few toppings I like (my favorite pizza is the margarita). Really a place has to go out of their way to serve "bad" pizza. I have experienced it in Omaha on occasion, but not worth mentioning. -- Billy Mac
Wow! Your article is a real stroll down memory lane for me and many of my friends. You mention the Hilltop House, which was our favorite restaurant for many years. The chef there had a number of fantastic recipes, the most noteworthy of which was Lobster Newburgh. Do you think there might be any way for you to recover the recipe for me since you seem to be such an Omaha old timer?? Thanks a million!
I only had the opportunity to eat at the Hilltop House once, many many years ago. My grandmother used to like to lunch there, as well as at Bishops (remember the little lights they had on the tables...you would turn yours on if you needed service), and the restaurant at Younkers at Westroads. I think it was the Peacock Room or something like that. Anyway, I will leave it up to the publisher, Erik, to ferret out the old time recipes. He dug around and came up with the picture of the Salernos that accompanies the article above.
Since you're on the subject of old Omaha haunts, have you ever had the chili dogs at Louis Bar & Grill on Radial Highway? They are simply the best in town, and I bet you would appreciate the atmosphere, too!
There were good Mexican restaurants in Omaha in the 70's; you just had to know where to go. There was Michael's deep in the heart of South Omaha around 23rd & "Y" Street. For Italian, I was also enamored of the old Caniglia's on 7th Street. In my high school years, I liked to race down there on the interstate with my buds for a good Italian Meal. It was my wife's favorite, and we always made it a point to make it there every time we visited Omaha. We were sad to see it go. Still, my mind will always says, "Omaha = steak." To that end, Johnny's in South O was a favorite, and the fresh stuff was right next to the restaurant! We also liked the Tomahawk on Maple. When I was around 10 or 11, my grandmother was dating an older fellow who was well off. He would take her and us to the Tomahawk for dinner, and I would have my fill of steak and lobster at his expense. =) Great steaks, too! Anthony's continues to be a favorite of mine in that regard - especially for the little extras they add to your cocktail.
My major regret is that I didn't discover the joys of Chinese food until after I had graduated from college. If I had, I would have spent a lot more time and money at King Fongs'. When I tasted my first plate of egg foo young, it was like Barney Gumble saying, "Where have you been all my life?" The burgers at Ted's Bar and Grill on 10th Street when the area was the warehouse district were tasty and made for a great lunch. I often wonder if "Theodore's" still makes them as good.
By the way, is S. Kotlarz who I think it is? Big Fred's is great. I remember when they had a restaurant on "L" Street near the apratment I lived in during college. I hit them up quite often for their deliccious double crust pie, but if I was in no condition to drive that far, Sotino's delicious Pizza was right across the street at 84th and Park Drive.
Ah, memories of a well fed life...
Bill, We must be close to the same age, as we have many of the same food memories from Omaha. I grew up there, moving in 1983 for school/work. Cliff's, Ground Cow, Sorentinos, Big Freds, Kings, McDonald's on Dodge. Here was another good hamburger place on Dodge - I believe it was called Mr. Gs. Remember this? Do I have the name right? It was a take out shack, that moved into a mall at around 84h and Dodge.
Rose Lodge had the best chicken I've had in my life. Does anyone have the secret recipe?
I too would love to get the recipe for Roses Lodge Fried Chicken. Was anyone lucky enough to get it?
Wow! Ground Cow. I remember when I was old enough to "try" to eat the cheddar steer. That had to be a 2 pounder. They also had these au gratin potatoes that were really just cubes drenched in cheese. Talk about a heart attack on a plate. But you could stand in the front and watch the cooks char the meat.
All those restaurants gone & what does Omaha have now? chains, chains, chains...with the exception of a few, Jams, Julios, a few others.
hmm.. funny
I went to Burke HS from 71-74 and my first job was at Cliff's, working in the kitchen. BEST FRIED CHICKEN EVER!!!
Big Fred's is STILL my favorite pizza-nothing comes close. I really miss Ross' Steakhouse though.
I'm in Houston now and have been for 25 years but those places will forever be the best in my mind!
Nobody has mentioned La Casa on Leavenworth Street for Italian food. They made a killer double crust hamburger pizza and their other Italian specialties were great! I also remember Travatto's around 50th & Underwood. The best chili, french dips, and pork tenderloin sandwiches I remember came from The Nifty Bar & Grill on NW Radial Hwy. just east of 48th St. Great memories!
Pookie Snackenburgers were served at Oddo's, which I believe was in South Omaha - my father loved to order something there called the Moe-She-Fro, whatever that is. Anyone remember chocolate homestyles at Evans Ice Cream on Center Street? Remember Hamburger Heaven at Brandeis? Oh, those afternoons after school at Central, walking down there...the definition of nostalgia: any time that isn't now.
There was another steak house called the Spare Time that had great steaks, it was near the location of the Italian Gardens. So much more atmosphere than today's "chains." Glad to see places like the Dundee Dell are still flourishing. Makes me miss Cappy's 49er and all the other places I used to hang.
During the 50s, there were two drive-ins that my parents used to take us to. One was a restaurant that I seem to remember was off of Dodge where the served Pookie-snack-in burgers. Another was Shadas (I might have the spelling a little off) where their specialty was Chili Dogs. They were great! I remember eating 10 of them at one sitting. I was 12 or 13 at the time. Did the recipe for these delicacies survive? My Uncle's favorite haunt was "The Elbow Room." They held shuffle-board tournaments there. Does it still exist?
I have just returned home to Connecticut from a week long visit in Omaha.
I was married in Omaha, 45 years ago.
I made the statement that my wedding rehersal dinner was at Trentino's Resturant.
Apparently I am the only one that remembers the resturant among the group of people
I was speaking too.
I remember the building as one level, red or tan brick, with an Italian arch motif, the building sat at an angle to the street .
.....Could you help fill in the blanks with the location of this resturant.
It is no longer open......this is the only sight I brought up that mentioned, Trentinos.
I can say that the ressturant was not on 10th street, I thought it was somewhere around 72nd street.
Thank you for any help.
Gone but not forgotten, Donna Grant
p.s. Enjoyed the sight
Anyone remember name of restraunt on 72nd street across from furnture mart near post office? Detroyed in tornado of 1975 Email me Thanks
When we were kids, to celebrate our birthdays, my Grandmother would take us to The Silver Lining at Epply Airport for lunch. It was so cool to sit by the windows and watch the planes. And then you would get your own little birthday cake!! Also my Dad used to take me to Trixies to pick up those killer ham sandwiches.
I remember Trixie's - great ham sandwiches, bean soup, and beer.
Was B&G's the drive in at about 84th & Dodge that served a sloppy joe kind of sandwich?
I work at Qwest and we were visiting about favorite restaurants, I remember Peter Citron so well.. he started with the South Omaha Sun.. anyway, don't forget the Short Stop in So Omaha...we can't remember where Sparetime and Trentino's were located... was the Sparetime down on 6th, close to the original Caniglia's??
Reading these blogs brought be back to my childhood and adolescence growing up in Omaha.
So many food memories; Trixies in downtown Omaha for the most delectable hot beer steamed ham sandwiches. And I can still remember the stuffed artichokes at the Italian Gardens. My favorite pizza ever, like so many of you is still La Casa. Does anyone remember Cantoni's on about 30th and Leavenworth for spagetti and meatballs? When we were little my father would often stop there and bring home quarts of the stuff! Is there a Omaha (old) restaurant cookbook with some of the recipes we all remember and loved? I'm trying to find the recipe for the cold bavarian mint dessert that The Hilltop House was know for.
I remember going to Trentino's a couple of times in high school on dates! I thnk that it was adjacent to 10th Street, to the South of what is now the Old Market. I remember it sitting on a corner in what was the old Italian neighborhood.
I'm still trying to find the recipe for the Chocolate Bavarian Mint dessert from the Hilltop House. Does anyone have it?
Does anyone out there remember Trixie's Bar in Downtown Omaha? They made the best shaved ham sandwiches baked in beer!
The Rose
4 West Main Street
Treynor, IA
They come from miles around to enjoy this family style restaurant that is decorated seasonally. Chicken dinners are the same recipe of "The Famous Rose's Lodge" that was one of Omaha’s favorites.
I still remember the good prime rib served at Kenny's years ago at the SE corner of 72nd & Dodge. I loved that place as a youngster. The Firmatures though were probably the best at preparing prime rib at their restaurants, which included the gas lamp and another short lived venture in the Regency Shopping Court. Their seasoning, which I think included garlic, was special. Then there was the B&G Drive Inn which still sort-of lives today, in strip mall form.
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